Comments for Rose Cut Diamond Pin - When was 14k gold first used in jewelry.

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Antique Diamonds & Georgian Jewelry
by: Anonymous

Hi thanks for writing in with the following hallmark question:

"I'm looking at what is clearly an antique diamond brooch, foil backed rose cut diamonds, hand cut diamonds, stone sizes all over the map, set in yellow gold which tests out to be 14k.

This is a very large brooch and the floral style appears distinctly Georgian, but it's the karatage of the gold that gives me pause. The piece is not stamped. A history of work to the piece, some good quality, some not so good, using lead solder, is evident on the closed reverse of the brooch. It was purchased perhaps fifty to sixty years ago from a high end jeweler in the middle east and was said to have had a Russian provenance.

As I recall however, Russian diamonds were known for being higher quality, and very white, and these diamonds are K-M or higher in color. A very pretty piece to be sure, but even after going through a dozen or more books on antique jewelry (to no avail) I'm still struggling to accurately identify the age. The 14k gold karatage in use here may help. Any thoughts as to age on your end? "

Diamond Dan thanks for your contribution! Yes, as you say, not every antique diamond is an antique diamond;-)

How beautiful! Despite the quality and uncertainties of the diamonds, the closed setting, which is metal under the stones so that no part of the stone below the girdle is exposed was popular in the 18th century. The jeweller used FOIL or paint on the unexposed back of the stone to enhance their appearance.

The Georgian period more or less covers the reign of four successive English kings George I, George II, George III and George IV between 1714 and 1830.

Georgian jewelry is rare because as time passed the "old stuff" was melted or taken apart and re-used for the modern designs of the day. Materials like gold, silver and diamonds were very scarce and expensive and little consideration for fine craftmanship was taken into account with the "old stuff" when the owners wanted to wear their gold and diamonds according to the latest fashion in jewelry.

Floral and scroll motifs are typical of the period and the most common stones used are garnets, precious topaz, coral and early faceted diamonds and rose cuts and table cuts set in silver.

During most of the 18th century, diamonds were set in closed silver-settings, a technique used because jewelers of that time believed that only a silver mounting could render the true beauty of a precious stone. Because silver though often left black stains on clothing or skin, they coatiet the backs of the jewels in gold. Jewelry was custom designed to suit the diamonds that were available. Stones were never specially cut for the pieces.

14K, 14ct or 585 (parts per 1000) or 58.5% gold (Asian for overseas market. Common in USA. Russian 584.)

For more info on Georgian Jewelry Here.

Regards

Yvonne Hammouda-Eyre

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Rose Cut Diamonds in the 20th Century?
by: Diamond Dan

not all rose cut diamonds are antique diamonds. Rose cut diamonds lost popularity when the BRILLIANT was invented in the early 18th century however, there was a big revival in the early 20th century. Rose cut diamonds in the 20th century were mainly used if too much of the stone looked like it would be lost if it were cut as brilliant. Just a thought.

DD :-)

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