An Introduction to Antique Jewelry Hallmarks

Welcome to Antique Jewelry Investor and an introduction to Antique Jewelry Hallmarks and Markings on Antique Gold Jewelry.

Marks on Jewelry is a huge area and can be incredibly challenging. That's the reason I created the hallmark challenge.

This page about jewelry marks will give you a general overview of marks and hallmarks on jewelry to get you started. If you've been looking for information on INVESTING in Antique Jewelry, then Antique Jewelry Buying Basics, will guide you through the basic steps. You might like to also explore how to invest money safely in Gold Antique jewelry and tips on identifying antique gold jewelry.

The economy is toast right now and many people are turning to gold as a safe haven. Umm. Doomer porn or prudent preparation. You decide! Read about the three basic ways you can buy gold here.

There are some really good grass roots investing in gold and antique jewelry hallmarks links on this page, so it might be a good idea to bookmark this page so you can refer back to it later.

One of our most frequent questions that crop up, when it comes to identifying Antique Jewelry, concerns antique jewelry hallmarks, jewelry markings and hallmark determination.

Many people do not realize that there are literally thousands upon thousands of types of marks, from countries all over the world.

Today, when people talk about hallmarks, they could be referring to the jewelry marks used by silversmiths and goldsmiths to identify who made a particular piece, or other marks such as the guarantee that the piece was made from a high-quality metal, or a city mark, a tax mark, a country mark. etc.

But strictly speaking, a HALLMARK is purely an indication of the metal content, a compulsory mark like 750 or a crown symbol, a form of consumer protection or guarantee of purity or gold composition. This hallmark may be accompanied by other jewelry marks such as a maker’s mark and other marks.

Not surprisingly, when it comes to jewelry marks from different countries, like England, who have, British Hallmarks on their Antique Jewelry, many gold investors who buy physical gold, like gold jewelry are unsure if the jewelry marks are an essential requirement.

For example, are British Hallmarks (UKHM) really the best in the world? And who says so? British Antique Jewelry collectors?

*** For a comprehensive look at British Gold Hallmarks, see:
British Hallmarks on Gold, Silver and Platinum, including Historic British Hallmarks HERE. (this page opens a new window - it's a pdf file and a bit slow to load but well worth the wait.)

For a comprehensive look at Scottish Hallmarks from the 12th to the 20th century, see:
Historical Hallmarking Database of Scottish Goldsmiths Here. (It's free to use, all you have to do is register)

Hallmarking was originally introduced in 1300 in the UK by a Statute of Edward I and is one of the earliest forms of consumer protection.

Other countries, besides Great Britain, have Antique Jewelry hallmarks. Around the former colonies of the British Empire, these marks may just not be seen so often.

And then we have the highly collectible and much sought after, French Antique jewelry which contain French hallmarks. During the Louis era, the ram's head origin mark was in use in France from 1819 to 1838, when it was the Georgian era back in Britain.

And then again, there are earlier examples of premier jewelry, without any antique jewelry hallmarks as they predate the hallmark system.

From the world of Islamic art, Sothebys auctioned (April 2009) a Cut Brass Bridal Diadem from Persia. The Diadem is the ancestor of the Tiara.

The Persian diadem is not made of gold, nor hallmarked, thought to have been constructed between the 17th - 18th century and was estimated to reach 5,000—6,000 GBP. (Lot Sold. Hammer Price with Buyer's Premium: 6,250 GBP)

Hand constructed Jewelry in the area of Antique Indian Jewelry and Antique Ethnic Jewelry, from the Arabian peninsula, are other examples of premier antique jewelry not bearing antique jewelry hallmarks, indeed most have no discernible markings at all.

Providing the jewelry is authentic, old ethnic jewelry is rare and valuable jewelry and snapped-up in a heartbeat, by jewelry collectors around the world.

Some of the most spectacular jewelry pieces in the world, have been handcrafted by desert society dwellers, who had either:

1. no knowledge about Antique Jewelry hallmarks.
2. the jewelry pre-dates the hallmarking system.

This does not mean these unmarked pieces are not investment worthy or valuable. In fact, the opposite is true. The uniqueness of the design and the rarity factor overrides the need for jewelry markings.

A good question on the subject of gold jewelry with no visible markings, was recently submitted to Help Central from a visitor in India, who wanted to know how to date antique gold jewelry from India not hallmarked. Read what Gem Palace replied to the gold testing lab question Here.

British Jewelry with a full UKHM (United Kingdom Hall Mark) generally consist of the following marks:

UKHMs have been around long time. Striking a mark on British gold, originated in 1327 when King Edward III of England granted a charter to the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths marking the beginning of the Company's formal existence.

Headquarters were at London's "Goldsmiths' Hall of the Worshipful Company of Goldsmith" and this is actually where the English term "Hallmark" was derived.

Antique Jewelry Hallmarks may well have been applied by a trusted party known as the 'Guardians of the Craft' back then, guaranteeing a certain purity or fineness of the metal, but unfortunately that's not the case today.......

I Swear - Hallmarked Gold?

The guardians of the craft took their position seriously. Very seriously. Penalties for counterfeits were severe.

In 1397 a report was made on the false counterfeit stamps of two goldsmiths who were placed in the pillory at Westminster with their ears nailed to it and a ticket over their heads, on which their offenses were written. They each had one ear cut off. Good grief!

Antique Jewelry Hallmarks, include the assay mark or quality mark that indicates the ‘Quality’ of precious metal in the item. An assay office undertakes the job of testing all articles of silver, gold and platinum, to ensure that they meet the minimum standard of purity.

For example, 9ct (.375) struck into yellow gold jewelry, tells you there is only 375 parts of gold out of 1000 parts of metal. The other 625 parts of metal is a mix of copper, silver and zinc.

The second stamp is the 'origin mark' or 'assay office' mark or ‘Mark of Origin’.The origin mark, simply tells you where the item was assayed.

A Leopard’s Head is the most common and, yes, you guessed it! It's the mark of the LONDON Assay Office. Sometimes, the Leopard has a crown on his head (until 1821). The Leopard Head, is the King's mark!

The other most common Assay Office marks are from Birmingham (an Anchor). Once there were many Assay offices around Great Britain and Ireland, the Chester mark for instance. There are only three offices left in England now.

Sheffield is the last, using a ‘Rose’ origin mark - the rose has a symbolic meaning in jewelry. Flowers and their meanings were used in jewelry with history, like the Rose of Sheffield.

In a puritan society, people in love, harnessed the meanings of flowers, to speak openly of their love. Find out here about the sexuality of wedding rings.

I hope you have enjoyed an introduction to Antique Jewelry Hallmarks. Keep up date with all the latest Antique Jewelry news and subscribe to My Newsletter Here.

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